Brian
Humphrey from England, a well-known plantsman/nurseryman – and
seldom is one man both – is writing a book on propagation. He asked
me to look at the maple grafting part in case I “see any mistakes
which should be corrected.” The twenty pages I reviewed couldn’t
have “mistakes” because it was merely discussing various methods
and observations about maple propagation – and there really isn’t
a right or wrong way. I did learn a few things and got some ideas to
try at my nursery, and it wasn’t the first time that Brian has
shared his plant knowledge with me.
The
following is my response to some of the topics that he brings up, but
I won’t take the liberty to reveal his part – you’ll have to
buy the book yourself.

Acer x 'Purple Haze'
You
mention the “remarkable” hybrid A. x ‘Purple Haze’. It arose
in an outdoor seed bed of Acer griseum, and was noted for larger
leaves with purple undersides. I sent plants to Europe 12-15 years
ago, to Cor Van Gelderen and maybe others, and I was trying to
receive confirmation that it really was a hybrid. I was hoping that
“science” would look at it and make an official determination. I
heard nothing further until the Maple Society Convention in Belgium
in 2011. Generally half the attendees at these events are botanists,
and the other half are simple rustics such as myself. I have
witnessed that most of the academics defer to Piet de Jong, that he
is considered the highest authority on Acer. He smugly claimed that
that the hybrid was “impossible,” that ‘Purple Haze’ was
simply a variation within A. pseudoplatanus. Interestingly the
griseum-appearing leaf colors a fantastic orange-red in autumn, and
I’ve never seen an A. pseudoplatanus do that.

Acer x 'Sugarflake'
![]() |
Acer x 'Cinnamon Flake' |
More
ornamentally worthy than ‘Purple Haze’ is Acer x ‘Sugarflake’
and if it’s a hybrid (saccharum x griseum) then it is another cross
between different sections. De Jong also dismissed that as a hybrid,
and was certain that it was just a variation of Sugar maple. Of
course he has never seen a ‘Sugarflake’ specimen, and I wonder
what he would make of the (somewhat) exfoliating trunk which reminds
me of x ‘Cinnamon Flake’ (griseum x maximowiczianum).
Thirty
years ago seedling availability of Acer griseum was rare, so I
propagated the paperbark onto Acer rubrum. One of the original grafts
still grows in front of the house of the late Dr. Corbin of Portland,
Oregon. The union is still smooth and the top and bottom were the
same size the last time I saw it, but of course of very different
color. Occasionally a rubrum sucker will try to form, and the family
has been instructed to rub them off when small.

Acer griseum 'Narrow Form'
I
once had a seedling of A. griseum that was notably narrow, and I
thought that if we propagated it would make a perfect street tree.
When my specimen was about 15’ tall, a customer – and now I can’t
even remember who it was – begged and begged to buy it. I didn’t
want to sell it but eventually I relented. Before shipping I
harvested a few apical scions and grafted them on the only rootstock
I had – Acer rubrum. A few grafts took and all of them have
proceeded to grow as regular griseums, and none of them exhibit the
narrow form. If you look at Buchholz introductions on our website
you’ll notice Acer griseum ‘Narrow Form’. I don’t propagate
it at all anymore because its not at all narrow.

Acer nipponicum
I
have grown a few Acer nipponicum, but always as seedlings. I once
asked Peter Gregory if he knows of a suitable rootstock and he
suggested that I try Acer pseudoplatanus “because it accepts almost
everything.” My grafting resulted in 100%... failure, and I have
never wasted my time again.

Acer pentaphyllum
I
notice that the suggested rootstock in Cor Van Gelderen’s table for
Acer pentaphyllum is Acer pseudoplatanus. I have never tried that
because I achieve good success with Acer rubrum.
Acer buergerianum 'Angyo Weeping' |
In
the section on Summer Grafting – “Some recommend that for species
other than A. palmatum summer grafting should be delayed until
September.” I don’t know why to wait if the wood looks ready.
Last August we had success with Acer buergerianum, campestre,
circinatum, conspicuum, japonicum, macrophyllum, palmatum,
pentaphyllum, pictum, shirasawanum and sieboldianum. Admittedly the x
conspicuum ‘Phoenix’ grafts were only about 50%. It was our best
year ever and my propagator will be getting a raise. Of course I know
that next year could be our worst ever, and I’m sure no one will
want to return the extra money. The point is that you can
have good success with various species without “waiting until
September.”
My
success rates with grafting in October is that the earlier the
better. I think I it is probably weather related, with some Oregon
Octobers being cold and gloomy and others being warm and sunny. We
really like to finish by mid-September. I was surprised to see
Vergeldt in Holland grafting on October 20 one year. He used low
plastic tubes with bottom heat and kept the grafts dripping with
sweat. The rootstocks were pruned harshly with no foliage remaining,
so there was no chance of them catching mildew or other disease.
After 20 days, the grafts were uncovered and Vergeldt’s son implied
that they would have good success, of course depending somewhat on
the cultivar used. Two days later I flew home and copied the Dutch
method as best as I could, but my results were poor. I couldn’t
duplicate the feel of a Dutchman’s greenhouse – my humidity and
light are so different in Oregon.
![]() |
Saya deleafing scions |
I
prefer to deleaf all scions – it just keeps the operation cleaner.
I have experimented with keeping leaves on and that works as well,
but it puts me in a bad mood to walk past a withered moldy mess.
Besides I have grown closer to my youngest (now 11) daughter when we
deleaf scions in the evening after dinner. She is fast!
Acer palmatum 'Japanese Princess'
![]() |
Acer palmatum 'Ikandi' |
We
had some empty spaces on our hot pipe after grafting Fagus, Quercus,
and other species. We had about 200 rootstocks from failed summer
grafts and on Feb. 20 I cut scions of Acer palmatum ‘Japanese
Princess’ ‘Ikandi’ ‘Alpine Sunrise’ and the new ‘Bloody
Talons’. All scions came from stock in the greenhouse and on Feb.
20 they were just beginning to swell. They were kept on the hot pipe
for 20 days and now, two months later, we see that nearly everything
is vigorously growing. I have had the opposite results before too. We
keep our rootstocks in their pots and do no “drying off.” We
don’t dry off our summer rootstocks either. What I don’t like
about the hot pipe – we call callus tube – is that we must graft
about 3” above on the trunk so that the union is at the heat
source, when I would much prefer to have my grafts as close to the
soil as possible.
I
have “stick-budded” before, but I don’t like it because the
scion-rootstock size disparity means that I have to keep the plant
for an extra year or two before the cultivar catches up, so they are
not suitable to sell as one-year grafts. Years ago a Chinese woman
competitor propagated all of her maples via stick bud. Her product
looked wimpy and vulnerable compared to a normal side graft and I
took a lot of her business away.
On
the other hand my sister lived in the woods near the Oregon coast,
and Acer circinatum grew wild just past her lawn. For fun I stick
budded a couple dozen red laceleafs on her vines and some actually
took. They were never very vigorous because she didn’t top the
circinatum rootstock; nevertheless it was an odd sight to see red in
her green jungle.
![]() |
Acer circinatum 'Little Gem' |
![]() |
Juniperus squamata 'Blue Star' |
I
was surprised to see the mention of A. circinatum ‘Little Gem’ as
a candidate for top grafting. If palmatum rootstock is used the vine
cultivar – whether a witch’s broom or an upright grower – will
outgrow the rootstock and the product will always need the support of
a strong stake. I find this also true with palmatum cultivars that
originate from brooms such as ‘Shaina’ or ‘Kandy Kitchen’.
Other dwarves or spreader palmatum cultivars such as ‘Little
Princess’ or ‘Japanese Princess’ seem to be ok top worked,
although stem colors seldom match. Whether with conifers or maples,
as well as with other plants, what happens to the rootstock of a top
graft can vary greatly. Some stay skinny forever and some expand
significantly. If you graft a Juniperus squamata ‘Blue Star’
(witch’s-broom origin) atop a J. scopulorum ‘Skyrocket’ the
‘Blue Star’ seems to act as a bottle stopper and the stem fattens
up nicely. Abies koreana ‘Ice Breaker’ works but Abies koreana
‘Blauer Eskimo’ does not. I suppose the species of rootstock in
question is a factor too.
Years
ago the propagator at Monrovia Nursey wanted to visit because he had
heard that Buchholz did well with maples. I didn’t keep anything
secret from this southern California university graduate of
horticultural science. A week later I requested a visit to their
propagation department and after a lot of hemming and hawing from the
Higher Ups, I was finally granted permission. Boy, did we do things
differently! Their rootstocks were about 2/16-3/16” caliper growing
in 2” by 2.5” deep “rose pots.” I wondered how often they
would need water on a hot day. Their crew performed side veneer
grafts with leaves still on the rootstocks, so the scions started out
in a good deal of shade. The propagator admitted that they had to
frequently reduce the top foliage which was a very labor-intensive
task. By contrast we use 3 9/16” pots with a rootstock caliper of
about ¼”. Our container’s volume is about 8 times larger that
Monrovia’s and of course they take up more room in the greenhouse
but at least we don’t have to constantly prune.
Monrovia
had already finished a few thousand grafts, and I was shocked to see
their full-time watering man with a small wand and with very low
water pressure going up and down the pots. Each pot would be covered
at least ten times before it was sufficiently wet, and great care was
taken that no
water ever touched the grafted union. They kept up this practice for
about two months before the grafts were deemed safe for overhead
water. What a boring job their hand-watering must have been, and I
think that the irrigator was a university graduate too.
At
Buchholz Nursey we care less about the ingress of water into the
graft, and sometimes our overhead is turned on one day after the
graft was made. However we use large 8 x 3/8 x 0.20 budding stripes
and begin wrapping ¼” above the graft union and end ¼” below.
We leave no gaps in the budding strip, nor do we seal the top. This
method works for maples and conifers, and because it does we’ve
never experimented with any other way, although I am aware that many
nurseries in Europe and America secure their grafts differently.
![]() |
Total removal of rootstock in April |
We
head back the rootstock on our summer grafts at least once, and
perhaps twice for those grafted earliest. In the spring, (about the
first of April in the greenhouse) when the scions show a couple of
inches of new growth the rootstock is completely removed, leaving one
bud set on the rootstock above the graft.
Considering
using 2-year scionwood – and larger scions – it is not a practice
at Buchholz Nursey unless the 2-year wood is the only type available
and large enough. But I have seen obscenely large 2 or 3-year scions
used in England (Peter Catt) with apparent success. I understand one
of the goals of horticulture is to “improve” on nature and to
speed her up so that we can sell the product more quickly. I probably
will experiment this summer with larger scions, but I wonder if my
graft percentage will go down.
I
know that Vertrees recommended drying off rootstocks (1978) at least
with A. palmatum. My first years I did as told, but eventually I
stopped because I couldn’t see the value in it, and actually there
seemed some danger in the endeavor to adequately rewet the pots.
Always keep in mind that the solo propagator has the freedom to
experiment and follow his inclinations; those with employees
inevitably compromise and often adopt practices where the employees
will do the least amount of harm.
We
overwinter summer grafts in frost-free greenhouses, but some
experimenting on temperature lows might be interesting. 15 years ago
we had 18,000 laceleaf and ‘Bloodgood’ grafts in a greenhouse
that collapsed under heavy snow. It was a custom-graft project where
the customer owned all the rootstocks and provided all of the scions.
Throughout the night the grafts were exposed to 3-5 degrees of frost,
then early in the morning the plants were transferred to an
above-freezing greenhouse. We threw out 168 plants that were broken
at the graft, but everything else looked ok. That spring we were
pleased with our normal 90-something percent success rate, and I was
glad that I never bothered the customer (Ekstrom Nursery) about the
incident.
1 gallon Buchholz maple |
Competing
nurseries usually pot up their one-year grafts into 1-gallon pots one
year after grafting. They are watered and fertilized heavily and kept
in warm poly houses. They are staked onto bamboo where some whips
achieve 3’ of growth. The following spring they are shipped to
garden centers as a plant slightly less than two years old. At
Buchholz Nursery we don’t stake *Acer palmatum cultivars – we
prune instead – and keep them an extra year. Our 1-gallon pots are
more husky with greater caliper. These days the competition charges
between $10-12 for their one gallon pots; we charge between $14-16
for ours. Admittedly their system is more profitable, but I am more
proud of my plants. Furthermore, when growing the gallons on to
larger sizes, our future plants will have more impressive shapes than
the pushed-whip method.
![]() |
Acer palmatum 'Ryu sei' |
*An
exception would be A. p. ‘Ryu sei’ where we want height first.
When they are as tall as we want, then they are topped to form a
well-branched umbrella shape.
One
of the best aspects of horticulture is that you can rub shoulders
with some of the greatest plantspeople and learn from their
experience. There have also been times when dumbshits teach me a
thing or two. I don’t know where I fall that continuum, but at
least I’ve been able to make a living.
Enjoyable read, thanks.
ReplyDeleteurple haze in UE is named griseumxpseudoplatanus?
ReplyDeleteAmazing blog, I've just discovered yours by googling 'Nelis Kools' :).
ReplyDeleteI'm into Acer and Giant sequoia, but my success into propagating Acer has been so far close to nonexistent.
Regards.
Thanks for sharing your propagation techniques,Maples are addictive, you have impressive results.The bark on sugarflake looks like my triflorum here in New Zealand,Im having about a 65-70%success of Maple grafts done in our NZ summer. cheers Milli from Mt Somers
ReplyDelete